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Pierpaolo Piccioli Debuts at Balenciaga with The Heartbeat Collection

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first show for Balenciaga marks a new era for the Kering house and an attempt at reset after years of controversy. Presented in Balenciaga’s 17th-century Paris headquarters, The Heartbeat collection brought together couture craftsmanship and everyday ease. Piccioli has reinterpreted Balenciaga’s sculptural legacy through sack-dresses, cropped tops, and cape-like leather jackets stripped of lapels and sleeves. The palette swung between sharp minimalism and bursts of saturated color, signaling both reverence for Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archive and a decisive step forward.

After 25 years at Valentino, Piccioli’s appointment follows Demna’s move to Gucci (more on that further down), part of Kering’s wider shake-up to reignite slowing sales. His debut instantly set a calmer tone with less irony, more emotion. “I don’t want to deny what has been here before me,” he said, framing the show as evolution, not rebellion.

For menswear watchers, The Heartbeat offers clues to Balenciaga’s next direction: structured simplicity, romantic tailoring, and couture sensibility applied to everyday garments. The brand feels poised for a quieter kind of power.

Demna’s First Gucci Lookbook: La Famiglia

Demna has officially entered his Gucci era with a surprise drop of his first lookbook, La Famiglia, ahead of Milan Fashion Week. Shot by Catherine Opie, the series introduces a cast of archetypes - the Partyboy, the Direttore, the Nerd - each embodying a different slice of “Gucciness.” Think open silk shirts, shimmering vests, moto leather, and sharp tailoring reinterpreted with Demna’s signature irreverence.

It’s a confident debut: playful, sexy, and self-aware. After a decade defining Balenciaga’s dystopian chic, Demna is using Gucci to explore excess again, but this time through a warmer, more nostalgic lens. The lookbook reads like a family portrait of characters who shouldn’t belong together but somehow do with all held together by craft, irony, and a wink at heritage.

La Famiglia feels like a reset for Gucci with less cynicism, more charm, and a reminder that fashion still works best when it doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Matthieu Blazy Blasts Chanel Into Orbit

Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel arrived with a literal bang: models walked beneath spinning planets and a blazing artificial sun at Paris Fashion Week. His first collection, titled “The Big Bang,” pulled the brand’s heritage into a new orbit. Cropped bellhop jackets replaced classic tweed suits, trousers took the place of skirts, and handbags appeared crumpled and lived-in rather than pristine. Even the house’s signature camellias and pearls were reimagined with a mischievous edge.

Though this wasn’t a menswear show, it’s a moment any fashion obsessive will clock. Blazy’s take on Chanel signals a broader shift in luxury: one that values wit, imperfection, and character over polish. His approach feels looser, less reverential, and more in tune with how people actually dress now.

It wasn’t just a new collection. It was a reminder that heritage only matters when someone’s brave enough to play with it.

Check it out here.

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